A Whale of a time – article by Anthony Dennis
Sydney Morning Herald Travel Journalist 12 August 2000
Oh, well. Eden, a fishing port on the brink of the NSW and Victorian border, was about halfway between where I was coming from and where I was going to. And I didn’t want to stay at a motel, so I decided to make a booking at this Crown and Anchor. When I called I was told I’d be in the 'Brick Room' of a converted pub at the end of Eden's main street (just past the Killer Whale Museum). Oh, right, what the hell is the 'Brick Room', I thought? The Crown and Anchor Inn, as it eventuated, was better than some of those places I’d planned weeks, months, even years to stay at. Better, too, than many of those spontaneous choices.
It was built as a small hotel in the early 1840s and was first licensed in 1845. It is described as the first substantial building in Eden. Before it there were just slab and bark huts. I arrived at night, so it was impossible to tell what sort of views, if any, the Crown and Anchor afforded of the Pacific Ocean and Twofold Bay, though it was clear that it was in a good position. I was escorted to the 'Brick Room' by a young woman, having been informed that drinks would be served in the sitting room with the other guests. The bedroom derives its name from the fact that its walls are exposed bricks. It was on the small side and devoid of much of a view, but it was well appointed with solid, attractive antique-style furniture, including a rather substantial and, I would later discover, comfortable bed. (I had a peek in the other rooms and they all appeared to be of extremely high standard and with better views.) There was also a small but agreeable en suite.
So once settled in, I ventured into the sitting room to join the other house guests. The idea of actually having to converse with fellow guests is enough to cause convulsions for others. There were two couples waiting; one from suburban Sydney and another from seaside Victoria. After about half an hour of pleasant chat, having struck up a rapport with the Victorian couple over some sparkling wine and apple juice, with the young woman doing her best to be congenial, we all left for dinner.
A seafood restaurant, the Wheelhouse, situated appropriately at Eden’s fisherman’s wharf, had been recommended to us by the young woman at the Crown and Anchor. When I arrived there, the restaurant checked my name and said the Victorian couple wondered whether I would like to join them for dinner. I was flattered since I was travelling alone and they were travelling together as part of a weekend away. The food was good, in an unsophisticated, seaside town kind of way, and deliciously fresh. It was a most enjoyable interlude.
The next morning revealed not only brilliantly sunny skies but the surprise realisation that the Crown and Anchor was situated in a superlative location. On one side there were truly superb views of the Pacific and on the other Twofold Bay. Eden’s situation is surely one of the most spectacular of any Australian town. During the whale watching season, between October and November, the Crown and Anchor affords excellent views of the giants frolicking in their watery habitat, but it can be harder to secure accommodation, so book well ahead. Eden’s reputation is based on its rich whaling heritage. A whaling station was built in 1828 and continued to operate until 1930. At the Killer Whale Museum there’s the giant skeleton of one of Eden’s most famous sons, Tom the killer whale. He reputedly assisted the early 19th century whalers hunt their prey.
During the whale season special platforms on Showground Road, along the Aslings Beach, help visitors spot the creatures. There are also cruises. But there is more to Eden then whales. Nearby is historic Boydtown, once a rival settlement, as well as Ben Boyd National Park. Back at the inn, breakfast was being served. The whole place was enveloped by blueness, both above and beneath us that was almost dizzying in its brilliance. A generous breakfast was served on the balcony, over the Saturday morning papers. Even with sunglasses I found the glare almost to great, but it was time to resume my journey again anyway.
As far as B&Bs are concerned, the Crown and Anchor was certainly one of the best choices I’d ever made, if you know what I mean. An old handbill from the Crown and Anchor Inn’s early days, discovered during restorations, features on the modern-day establishment’s brochure. After just a single night at this surprising Eden gem, the sentiment clearly still applies today. 'This hotel commands a splendid view of the whole of the Bay,' the old handbill reads 'and is supplied with the very best articles the market can produce, and cannot be surpassed on the coast as a comfortable residence for visitors or a resting place for travellers.'